The last 2 days focus on the southwestern peninsulas. After a short intermezzo in Cork (you need to display a parking card, but you can't get one at a shop without parking...) I start with the Mizen Peninsula, where the weather is grand (for Ireland) if a bit hazy. The higher grounds on No.2 (being the Beara Peninsula) are already covered in clouds. So much for my intention to travel the Healy Pass... But following the coastline along the "Ring of Beara" grants me many a rewarding view. And for once I won't get wet today - except for my feet, that drown in bogwater. Hauling 2 pairs of wellies in my boot I still set out to cross a boggy field in leather shoes. But the stone circle sure looked nice ;-)... The hostel in Templenoe claims to be fully booked (-looks more like they don't wish to bother with just 1 guest) which forces me back to Kenmare and the Kenmare Lodge Hostel for the night.
That hostel turns out to be the worst of the lot, mouldy air and snorring guests. But after all the amazing independant hostels I encountered in Eire, I'm probably fairly spoiled. Still, the lack of sleep doesn't help with my attitude towards the Irish weather: my last day travelling is going to be just as miserable as the 1st. But unwilling to relent, I still check out some of the attractions of Killarney NP (-one being the best preserved old-time forest), and then follow the "Ring of Kerry". In Sneem I take pity on 2 Czech students in the rain, Ewa and Gabi, and together we laugh at the missing views of literally everything, sea, coast and mountains alike, until I deliver them to their hostel in Dingle, in the middle of a pour-down. Refreshed by their lovely treat of an expensive Espresso Affogatto I abolish my original plans of touring the whole "Ring of Dingle", but head "home" to Dermott's instead. After all, there's no point in sightseeing if you can't see further than a few feet. 4 hours and 300 Ks of driving non-stop under most adverse conditions (dark, wet, and narrow roads, blinding headlights, and slow people in front...) and I'm back where I started, receiving a warm late-night welcome from Hannah :).